How Pearlyn Lee put pandan on Paris’ culinary map

Pearlyn Lee starts her mornings in Paris early, with a moment of quiet reflection and the occasional run, before heading to her bistros in the 11th arrondissement to check in with her team, taste dishes and meet partners.

The Singaporean entrepreneur runs The Hood, a casual spot serving hawker-inspired fare, and Nonette, a takeaway specialising in bánh mì and doughnuts.

Today, The Hood is known for its pandan-infused creations and signature chicken rice – a far cry from its early days. Pearlyn has come a long way, from fielding basic questions about pandan to being invited onto television to speak about it.

Here, the 43-year-old entrepreneur shares how she brought Southeast Asian flavours into the French capital’s mainstream.

Pearlyn’s path to Paris was far from conventional. After 12 years in finance, navigating global commodities, she was posted to Switzerland in 2011. Frequent trips to Paris soon planted the seed for something more.

While she enjoyed the work, she began to question what she was building – and for whom. Food had always been a constant she gravitated towards, a way to bring people together and spark conversation.

Despite her success in commodities, she found herself drawn to something more personal – a path that felt more meaningful and aligned with her instincts.

Together with her business partner, Khanh-Lee Huynh, a French-Vietnamese chef and winner of MasterChef France 2015, The Hood was born.

Pearlyn says: “It’s about creating spaces where people come together, not just to eat, but to connect, exchange, and feel something again.”

Going from finance to running a business was a steep learning curve for her. “F&B looks simple, but it’s operationally demanding. And most mistakes are people-related. I learnt quite quickly – if you want to go far, you need the right people,” says Pearlyn, who now manages a team of 16 operational staff.

In a city defined by strong culinary traditions and fine dining, Asian cuisine was often misunderstood – unfairly perceived as cheap and of poor quality – when she first opened The Hood, a Singapore-style kopitiam serving local dishes.

Beyond a handful of Chinatown restaurants and a limited understanding of Indochinese cuisine, Southeast Asian flavours were largely unfamiliar.

“When we first put chicken rice on the menu, people would ask, ‘Chicken and rice, that’s it?’ or ‘Where is Singapore?’,” recalls Pearlyn.

For her, the aim was never just about food, but about representing Singapore and Southeast Asia with nuance.

“Starting The Hood Paris was about creating something I felt was missing. People crave connection and a place to belong. We wanted to create a space where Southeast Asian culture could exist without being reduced to clichés,” she says.

What started as a neighbourhood cafe became something more. The Hood became the home of pandan in Paris, and its chicken rice has become its signature dish. “Customers now come regularly for kaya (coconut-egg jam), and that’s such a win,” adds Pearlyn.

Sister concept Nonette followed in 2021, just across the street from The Hood, serving kaya-filled doughnuts and freshly baked bánh mì from a takeaway counter. Across both bistros, the focus remains firmly on the food – but in true French fashion, the quality of ingredients takes centre stage.

The Hood’s chicken rice uses poulet jaune, a free-range yellow chicken prized for its texture and depth of flavour, while Nonette’s bánh mì leans on fresh, locally sourced produce. Today, Pearlyn remains closely involved in both strategy and operations.

“I still taste everything, question details, and spend time coaching our managers and shift leaders,” she says. Afternoons are spent building systems, automating data and refining training frameworks. Evenings are when the spaces come alive.

She is often at The Hood – speaking with guests, training her team or hosting events. Over the years, she has steadily introduced Southeast Asian flavours to Parisian diners through curated experiences.

In 2021, she launched a Singapore food festival at The Hood with support from the Singapore Tourism Board. In 2023, visiting chefs and personalities from Singapore led a pop-up featuring Peranakan and South Indian dishes.

Even a durian party last year drew over 450 guests. By 2024, about 70 per cent of her customers were French, often introduced by Asian regulars bringing friends.

“For me, part of the job is done – to see people so open to trying new flavours,” she says.

Underpinning everything is BLK65, her cultural and creative platform for dialogue and storytelling about the region. Functioning like an agency, it focuses on cultural programming, brand activations and collaborations across food, art, fashion, music and hospitality.

“People come for the food, but what stays with them is the space, that sense of belonging,” Pearlyn adds.

“The idea is to position Singapore and Southeast Asia in Europe in a way that feels authentic and contemporary – not just through restaurants, but as a broader cultural presence.”

Click here for more information on Nonette and The Hood.