Part of the Potato Head family, Kaum explores Indonesia through the food traditions of its many regions and communities. Its team has travelled across the archipelago, learning about local ingredients, recipes and cooking techniques and bringing them together on a menu designed largely for sharing.
The name means “clan” or “tribe” in Indonesian, and that sense of gathering around food runs through the restaurant. Kaum first opened in Hong Kong in 2016, followed by Bali later that year and Jakarta in 2017. Today, its Jakarta home in Menteng brings that same cross-country approach to the Indonesian capital.
What to expect
Come with company and order across the menu. Maluku’s gohu ikan tuna (Rp95,000; approximately $7) pairs fresh tuna with coconut oil, calamansi and belimbing (starfruit), finished with kenari nuts and ginseng leaves. From West Papua, meri totora (Rp85,000; approximately $6) is a fresh nutmeg pickle salad with cabbage, carrots, cherry tomatoes and jicama, served in a young coconut.
Then, follow the smoke from the grill. The satay selection travels from Madura to Central and West Java, with options such as sate buntel (Rp190,000; approximately $14), Solo-style grilled minced lamb satay with sweet soy sauce, kecombrang (torch ginger) and pickles, and sate sapi wagyu maranggi (Rp195,000; approximately $14), grilled wagyu beef satay marinated with ginger, garlic, galangal and crushed pepper.
For the main event, fill the table and share. East Nusa Tenggara’s se’i sapi sambal lu’at (Rp135,000; approximately $10) pairs kosambi-wood-smoked beef with traditional fermented chilli relish, while West Sumatra’s kalio daging (Rp155,000; approximately $11) features braised beef cooked with regional spices and fresh coconut milk.
Like a little more heat? Kaum has eight sambals from around the archipelago, including Bali’s sambal matah (spicy shallot condiment), Manado’s sambal rica-rica (hot spice mixture), North Sumatra’s sambal tuk-tuk (spicy anchovy relish with andaliman pepper) and Sulawesi’s sambal roa (smoked fish chilli relish), priced from Rp35,000 (approximately $3).
A sweet finish
Those with a sweet tooth can keep the journey going. East Java’s bongko kopyor Mengare (Rp45,000; approximately $3) is a steamed rice custard with sago, jackfruit, young coconut, toast and palm sugar, while West Java’s colenak (Rp55,000; approximately $4) pairs fried fermented cassava filled with palm sugar with house-made vanilla ice cream.
To cool things down, turn to the drinks menu. Kaum’s Rested Cocktails (Rp170,000; approximately $12) are left to rest for 21 days in traditional Balinese kendi, or clay pots, before being served. The five cocktails each take inspiration from a different part of a plant – root, stem, leaf, flower or fruit. The Akar, Batang, Daun, Bunga, Buah tasting flight (Rp250,000; approximately $18) lets you try all five in sequence.
Skipping alcohol? The drinks remain distinctly Indonesian. Jejamuan (Rp60,000; approximately $4) draws on the country’s centuries-old jamu (traditional herbal drink) tradition, with choices such as West Java’s bandrek (spiced ginger drink) and Sulawesi’s sarabba (ginger and palm sugar drink with coconut cream).
The alcohol-free Nol collection (from Rp50,000; approximately $4) takes a more contemporary approach, with ingredients including sugar cane, kedondong (ambarella), torch ginger and passion fruit.
What not to miss
For something you won’t find at Kaum elsewhere, head to the Made for Jakarta menu. These are the dishes the Jakarta chefs are most proud of, created specifically for this location.
The bebek timus (Rp315,000; approximately $23) is a standout, with smoked Peking duck marinated in Indonesian spices and served with tasak telu, or chaya leaves. For something rich and comforting, tongseng buntut (Rp225,000; approximately $16) braises oxtail with spices, coconut milk, white cabbage and green tomatoes, served with pickles and sambal.
For something brighter, garang asam iga (Rp215,000; approximately $15) combines beef ribs with a sour broth of starfruit, green tomatoes, ambarella, green chilli and sweet basil. There’s also nasi goreng kambing (Rp175,000; approximately $13), spiced fried rice with lamb, raisins, pickles and emping (melinjo crackers).
Coffee is worth an order too, particularly the city’s namesake. Kaum’s kopi susu Jakarta (Rp70,000; approximately $5) combines espresso with coconut nectar, cinnamon, cream and fresh milk. Alternatively, kopi rarobang (Rp70,000; approximately $5) is brewed with local herbs and spices, topped with kenari nuts and served with condensed milk on the side.
Why visit
Indonesia is far too big to eat your way through in a single trip. At Kaum Jakarta, you can cover plenty of ground without leaving the table, with dishes from Maluku, Papua, Sumatra, Java, Sulawesi and beyond.
Come with company, order widely and make the most of being in the capital.
Opening hours
Sunday to Thursday: 11am to 10pm
Friday and Saturday: 11am to 11pm
