4 designers offering a modern take on traditional textiles

As fast fashion falls out of favour, four Asian designers show why working with traditional textiles is an art form worth preserving

1. Seeker x Retriever

Seeker x Retriever's Sound of Waves collection was created in collaboration with a weaving collective from Thailand's Isaan region.

Ex-fashion journalist turned creative director Nan Tohch says that the death of her mother resulted in her label’s birth. A visit to her ancestral home in Thailand reacquainted her with local textiles and led her to work with Nammorn Design, a community of weavers in Lampang.

Today, Seeker x Retriever specialises in slow fashion, or “quiet clothing” – gender fluid pieces made of handwoven cotton and natural dyes that mix-and-match for the perfect capsule wardrobe. The label’s reversible Kyoto top can be worn two ways, while the lightweight Kobo jacket celebrates both form and functionality.

2. Eric Raisina

Raisina has patented a handmade silk "fur" made of 100% silk thread, wearable across all seasons and easily cleaned with baby shampoo.

Born in Madagascar, Raisina trained in Paris before moving to Siem Reap. In 2005, he opened his first Villa Boutique Workshop, focusing on both traditional and modern Cambodian silks.

While silk still remains at the heart of his designs, he has also created a unique lace made from raffia, which he uses in everything from textured shirts to evening dresses.

3. Ekru

To make matka khadi, the mismatched first and last portions of silk are dyed in two colours, twisted into a single yarn, and then woven into the fabric to give it a tweed-like appearance.

Kolkata-based duo Ekta Jaipuria and Ruchira Kandhar champion traditional textiles woven in small villages. Known for its ethnic kurta sets and saris, their label’s nature-inspired Spring/Summer 2018 collection features flowing silhouettes in lightweight, hand-loomed cotton and intricately embroidered jackets in matka khadi.

4. Cici

The unique prints, patterns and textures of Burmese textiles include the acheik (colourful zigzags and waves), as well as Kachin and Chin-style diamond shapes.

Created by local entrepreneur Su Wai Yee in 2015, Cici takes style cues from high street brands, pairing contemporary tops with ready-to-wear longyis (wraparound fabrics) fashioned from traditional textiles. Its second limited-edition collection draws inspiration from the “glamorous ’90s”, featuring three-quarter length longyis in acheik fabrics and woven cotton-silk tops.

This article was originally published in the November 2017 issue of Silkwinds magazine.