Tucked behind a discreet entrance on Club Street, this intimate Japanese restaurant is revered for its meticulously aged sushi. Owner and head chef Ashino is a pioneer of the art of jukusei, and has been honing the time-honoured technique of ageing fish to deepen umami for over a decade. The labour-intensive tradition, which can take up to 40 days, not only creates a more delicate flavour, but a soft, velvety texture in fish like kohada (gizzard shad) and yellowtail.
There’s something almost meditative about sitting at the century-old hinoki wood counter, watching the sushi master shape each piece with grace and precision. Each fish is also carefully sourced by Hiroki Hasegawa, a respected supplier specialising in shinkejime – a humane method which ensures the fish keeps its pristine freshness and texture. To supplement the omakase, guests are invited to explore the seasonal okonomi (meaning ‘as you like’) menu, which sometimes includes extraordinary items like stingray liver: buttery with a subtle oceanic brininess, a rare treat even for seasoned sushi connoisseurs. It’s this harmonious blend of exceptional ingredients, tradition and innovation that elevates Ashino into a sublime dining experience.
