The capital of Malaysia is a modern multicultural metropolis, where the old world meets the new around every corner. Here’s how to immerse yourself in the cultural melting pot affectionally known as KL
Once considered little more than a stopover on the way to somewhere, KL is increasingly regarded as a destination in its own right thanks to its incredible food scene, new hotels and the sort of palatial, colonial-era architecture that gave it a starring role in Crazy Rich Asians.
It’s a high-low place, combining dynamic, big-city energy – personified by the twin spires of the mighty Petronas Towers – with the pavement-level intimacy of street food and market stalls, and urban oases such as Forest Eco Park.
At its heart is the Bukit Bintang neighbourhood, with its bright lights and shopping malls, although Chinatown is increasingly the name to drop for its independent boutique hotels and creative cuisine.
Here are our go-to places for an insider view of one of Southeast Asia’s most intriguing cities.
When to go
Known for its eternal summer, there’s never really a bad time to visit KL, although the months between June and September – when humidity’s low and days dry – are best, while the monsoon is at its rainiest around October November and March-April. Singapore Airlines flies there throughout the year, with many routes going via its Singapore hub.
How to get around
KL can be a daunting place to navigate but there are ways to avoid being stuck in the slow lane – the best being the MRT train, providing a life-line through most of the main tourist hubs. Also keep an eye out for the pink coloured livery of the GO KL City Bus network, a free service that connects Bukit Bintang with Chinatown and other main places of interest.
What to do
Take a batik class
You’ll see batik prints everywhere in KL – the distinctive, brightly coloured fabrics that are used to make sarongs, shirts and other clothing. Making your own is immensely rewarding and several places (including Batik Boutique, supporting female artisans) offer classes in the technique, which involves using hot wax to create intricate patterns.
Islamic Arts Museum Malaysia
Almost a work of art in itself, this striking museum is a feat of architectural design, its white marble facade illuminated with blue tile mosaics and turquoise domes. Inside you’ll find collections of flowing calligraphy, wooden
carvings and iridescent jewellery, along with a lavish19th-century Ottoman Room from Syria. Afterwards, walk in the botanical gardens.
Where to stay
Else
Well placed for exploring Chinatown, this is full of sparky design detail, including hand-dyed totes by local brand MUNI and paintings by Malaysian artists. The restaurant, meanwhile, has fun plating up dishes such as duck leg with leek fondue and fortune cookies with yuzu cheese. After a busy day hitting the sights, try one of the spa’s floatation pods.
What to eat
Dewakan
Head here at sunset for unbeatable views of the Petronas Towers – chef Darren Teoh’s restaurant is set 48 floors above the city. His cooking aims high, too, taking local ingredients such as crayfish, banana leaf, aubergine, belinjau (a tree seed) and fermented rice and weaving them into more than 10 courses of culinary storytelling. It’s the only restaurant in Malaysia with two Michelin stars – deservedly so.
Where to drink
Taps Beer Bar
The craft beer scene arrived in KL with a splash in 2011with the opening of this passion project that sees five cousins travel the world sourcing fresh names for their chalkboard list. Those looking for local ale should zoom in on the IPAs, witbiers and stouts from PaperKite.
JungleBird
Tiki-inspired JungleBird was the first bar to champion rum-based serves in the city and has stayed one step ahead, with creations such as Mumbo Jumbo and the Plum Job (rum, umeshu and Amaro). Pack the Hawaiian shirt.
Penrose
KL’s cocktail scene has been progressing in leaps and bounds recently. Take this bar on Chinatown’s Petaling Street, where Jon Lee concocts drinks via a mathematical mindmap – it sounds complicated but the drinks are exceptional.
Where to explore
Batu Caves
Just outside the city is a spectacular Hindu temple complex that will take you over the rainbow. The 272 steps leading up to it are painted in bright colours and guarded by a towering gold-painted statue of Lord Murugan, the God of War – along with troops of rather mischievous long-tailed macaques. And at the top, visitors will find several, equally vibrant shrines that have been built inside a series of enormous limestone caves.
Where to shop
The Exchange TRX
In KL, the mall is central to everyday life, as much a social hangout spot as a place to buy things. Favourites include Pavilion Bukit Jalil and the Sunway Pyramid. The Exchange TRX is the smartest, though, combining familiar global brands with local fashion labels such as Mimpi Kita and CalaQisya. Right at the top is a sprawling garden with playgrounds and sweeping city views.
Feature image: Esmonde Yong/Unsplash
For more information on Singapore Airlines’ flights to Kuala Lumpur, visit singaporeair.com.
