Most people going to the Netherlands head for Amsterdam’s canals and museums, Rotterdam’s modernist architecture or perhaps Delft’s blue-and-white pottery. But just a 15-minute train ride from Amsterdam Centraal station (or a 40-minute direct bus from Amsterdam Airport Schiphol) is Haarlem, an under-the-radar neighbourhood that offers cultural depth and vibrant history in a smaller, arguably more authentically Dutch setting.
10am: Dive into history
Start your day by delving into Haarlem’s storied past. While Haarlem has existed since the 10th century, it wasn’t until 1245 that Count Willem II granted it city status. By the 14th century, it was Holland’s second-largest city, thriving on trade, textiles and its beer brewing expertise. During the Dutch Golden Age in 1575, the city became a prosperous arts centre and a sanctuary for Huguenots (persecuted French Protestants).
Discover the intricacies of this time at the Verwey Museum, which presents an all-encompassing look at Haarlem’s history, starting from its earliest years. At Anno Haarlem, this comes to life through an interactive experience while at the Archeologisch Museum Haarlem, objects from the city’s earliest habitation to its recent past are on display.
Nearby, the UNESCO-listed Grote Kerk (St Bavo’s Church) has dominated Haarlem’s Grote Markt (market square) since 1520. It’s a masterpiece of Gothic architecture, filled with Renaissance art and a massive Müller organ once played by Mozart.
For something different, Corrie ten Boomhuis explores the city’s World War II experience in a home that once hid a Jewish family. And, just outside the city centre, the Museum van de Geest Dolhuys, located within a former mental health institute, probes the minds of societal outcasts through the works of creatives and scientists who dealt with disabilities and mental illnesses, including artists Edvard Munch and Vincent van Gogh.
1pm: Tuck into some Dutch dishes
Soak up the city’s atmosphere while enjoying the local cuisine. A long-time favourite is Grand Café Brinkmann, which has occupied its spot overlooking the Grote Kerk since 1879. Whether you’re seated on the outdoor terrace or amid the old-world interiors, you’ll enjoy understated yet well-executed favourites, from croquettes and steaks to cheese fondue and fish stew.
You might not expect to get authentic Indonesian food in the Netherlands but after 300 years of colonial history, it’s now an integral part of Dutch cuisine. At the Michelin-recommended Café Samabe, try cuisine that focuses on Balinese specialities in a building dating back to 1899.
3pm: Explore its historical art scene
Between the 16th and 17th centuries, Haarlem flourished as the artistic capital of the Dutch Golden Age, which gave rise to Dutch Masters like Frans Hals, Cornelis van Haarlem and Jan Steen. The Frans Hals Museum celebrates Haarlem’s most famous resident, showcasing the world’s most extensive collection of the artist’s work – including his celebrated group portraits of the civic guards.
A short walk away, the country’s oldest museum boasts an eclectic collection that’ll thrill the curious. The Teylers Museum has everything: paintings by Michelangelo and Raphael in one room and a lineup of compasses in another. The Oval Room is a must-see — it’s the world’s only remaining 18th-century museum interior.
5.30pm: Cruise the canals along the Spaarne
Much like Amsterdam, Haarlem is laced with a network of canals. In the 17th century, these waterways were the city’s lifeblood, facilitating Haarlem’s trade – of cloth, flowers, beer and more – with other towns in the country and beyond its borders. They also formed a defensive barrier around the city, shielding it from the intensity of political and economic upheaval.
These days, Haarlem’s canals are perfect for taking in the picturesque views of old waterfront houses, lush parks and iconic windmills with a leisurely cruise down the Spaarne.
Haarlem Canal Tours offers skippered boat trips in different styles, many with insightful explanations of the city’s art, history and important landmarks – including Molen de Adriaan, Haarlem’s most famous windmill (now transformed into yet another museum).
7pm: Drink in historic surrounds
Haarlem has turned preserving its ancient architecture into an art form, and this is perhaps most obvious in its bars. A temple of tipple, Jopenkerk is a tribute to Haarlem’s beer culture housed in the grand surrounds of a 15th-century church. Try classics like the Mountain IPA or creative brews like the Zwarte Ziel 2025 (a salted caramel imperial smoked porter) and savour their flavours amid vaulted ceilings, stained glass windows, wooden beams and brickwork.
If you have time for a second stop, make your way to Proeflokaal De Blauwe Druif. Established in 1863, this is Haarlem’s oldest continually operating pub. Slip into the intimate space to enjoy a drink in the cosy, nostalgic surrounds of wood-panelled walls, Dutch Master-inspired paintings and flickering candlelight.
8pm: Fine dining
The Dutch are known for their practical, laidback approach and that includes their attitude to upscale restaurants. Haarlem’s Toujours is a prime example. In the city’s historic heart, this is a visual cacophony of colours, patterns and plants where groups gather to enjoy the surprisingly global menu – ranging from tacos to sushi – served by friendly staff.
Nearby, the Michelin-starred Restaurant ML is situated in heritage-listed surrounds of painter Johan Enschedé’s former home, which has been transformed with a chic design blending modern aesthetics with vintage elements. Here, chef Mark Gratama whips up highly creative plates infused with global touches. Grab a seat at The Chef’s Bar by the kitchen to watch him meticulously pair elevated ingredients with surprising flavours – think langoustine with rendang sauce or lobster with fig.
If one day isn’t enough in Haarlem, check into one of the city’s eclectic boutique hotels, all of which combine historic architecture with modern comforts. The refined Hotel t’Vosje, colourful BoutiqueHotel Staats Haarlem or quietly elegant ML Hotel are all good options.
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